Installation & Use Guide

Twitter carbon road bike
Twitter Bikes USA · Owner's Guide

Installation
& Use Guide.

Your bike arrives ~95% assembled. This guide takes you from the box to the road in under 30 minutes — seatpost, front wheel, saddle, handlebar, pedals — plus how to keep it fast for years.

Know your bike

Every part you'll hear us mention — on a road bike and a mountain bike. Handy when you order spares or ask us a question.

Road bike parts diagram
Road bike PARTS MAP
Mountain bike parts diagram
Mountain bike PARTS MAP

Road bike setup

Four steps, one hex key set. Carbon parts: hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually right — a torque wrench set to 5–6 Nm is even better.

Road · Step 1

Seatpost installation

🔧 4 / 5 mm hex key · carbon paste

Two frame styles exist: lock-on (an external wedge you tighten from behind) and built-in lock (a hidden bolt inside the frame). Slide the post in, set your height, then tighten. Our aero posts are sized for your frame — no cutting, no adapters.

Seatpost installation
Safety line: the minimum-insertion mark on the post must stay inside the frame. Above the frame = not safe to ride.
Carbon paste: a thin layer on the post stops slipping without over-tightening.
Road · Step 2

Front wheel installation

🔧 thru-axle lever / 6 mm hex

The wheel ships beside the frame with a disc guard and a caliper guard fitted. Remove both guards, drop the wheel into the fork so the rotor sits between the brake pads, then slide the thru-axle through and tighten.

Front wheel installation
Don't remove the small metal plug on the hub during unpacking — it belongs there.
Rotor between the pads: if the wheel won't seat, the rotor is beside the caliper instead of inside it. Lift and retry — never force.
Road · Step 3

Saddle adjustment

🔧 4 / 5 mm hex key

Loosen the two bolts under the saddle, slide it forward or back and set the tilt, then tighten both bolts evenly. Level is the right starting point for 90% of riders.

Saddle adjustment
Height rule of thumb: with your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, your leg should be just straight.
Road · Step 4

Handlebar alignment

🔧 4 mm hex key

The integrated cockpit ships attached. Loosen the two bolts at the back of the stem, stand over the front wheel and rotate the bar until it is perfectly square with the wheel, then tighten the side bolts.

Handlebar alignment
Tighten in steps: alternate between the bolts so the clamp closes evenly — carbon likes even pressure.

Pedal installation

Both bike types

Left is reverse-threaded

🔧 15 mm pedal wrench / 8 mm hex

Pedals are marked L and R. The right pedal tightens clockwise (normal). The left pedal tightens counter-clockwise — it is reverse-threaded so it can't unscrew while you ride. Thread by hand first, then snug with a 15 mm wrench or 8 mm hex.

Left is reverse-threaded
Never force a pedal: if it won't thread by hand, it's the wrong side or cross-threaded. Stop, swap, retry.
A loose pedal damages the crank threads and can fall off while riding — check both after the first 50 km.

Mountain bike setup

Same logic as the road bike, with a few MTB-specific parts: inner-lock or quick-release seat clamp, a stem face plate for the bar, and a brake caliper you can center in 60 seconds.

MTB · Step 1

Seatpost installation

🔧 4 / 5 mm hex key

Inner-lock frames use a small plate inside the seat tube (screw facing up, concave side to the post). Quick-release frames use a clamp ring — close the lever firmly; adjust the ring screw if it's too loose or too tight.

Seatpost installation
Safety line inside the frame — same rule as road. Dropper posts: insert to the line, never beyond.
MTB · Step 2

Front wheel mounting

🔧 thru-axle lever / 6 mm hex

Pull the protective rod out of the fork, remove the disc guard and caliper guard (leave the hub's metal plug alone), seat the wheel with the rotor between the pads, then insert the axle or quick-release and tighten.

Front wheel mounting
Boost axle 15×110: tighten until the lever closes firmly with the palm — no tools needed on QR versions.
MTB · Step 3

Saddle adjustment

🔧 5 mm hex key

Loosen the two bolts, set fore-aft and tilt, tighten evenly. Slightly nose-down (1–2°) helps on steep climbs.

Saddle adjustment
MTB · Step 4

Handlebar installation

🔧 4 mm hex key

Unscrew the four bolts of the stem face plate, sit the bar in the stem centered on its markings, refit the plate and tighten the four bolts in a cross pattern — top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left.

Handlebar installation
Even gap: the gap between the face plate and the stem must be equal top and bottom when done.
MTB · Step 5

Brake caliper centering

🔧 5 mm hex key

If the rotor rubs, loosen the two caliper bolts a quarter turn so the caliper floats, squeeze the brake lever and hold it — the caliper centers itself on the rotor — then tighten both bolts while holding the lever.

Brake caliper centering
Still rubbing? Spin the wheel and look for a wobble in the rotor; a slightly bent rotor can be trued gently by hand.

Care & maintenance

Five minutes a week keeps a carbon bike feeling new for a decade.

Before every ride

  • Brakes: squeeze both levers — firm, and the bike stops. Spongy lever = time for a bleed.
  • Tires: pressure to the range printed on the sidewall; no cracks, no bald tread.
  • Axles & quick releases: closed and tight. Bounce the bike gently — nothing should rattle.

Every week or two

  • Clean: rinse with water after wet rides, wipe dry. Never a pressure washer — it forces water into bearings.
  • Chain: one drop of lube per link, wait ten minutes, wipe the outside completely. Lube stays inside the rollers; what's outside only collects grit.
  • Shifting: run through every gear — each shift should be crisp, no skipping, no chain rub. Check the derailleur hanger is straight.

Every season

  • Wheels: spin and watch the rim — side-to-side or up-down wobble over 2 mm means the spokes need tensioning.
  • Bottom bracket & hubs: remove, clean the bearings, re-grease, refit. Or let your local mechanic do the 30-minute job.

Carbon warning

  • Any crack, deep scratch or colour change on a carbon part means the part is at the end of its life — stop riding it and message us with a photo. Carbon damage is not always obvious; when in doubt, ask.
Tire pressure markings
Reading the sidewall: pressure is printed on every tire. 1 bar = 100 kPa = 14.5 psi. Road: usually 80–110 psi. MTB: 25–35 psi.
Your tires ship deflatedAir freight rules require it. Inflate both tires to the sidewall range before your first ride — a floor pump with a gauge does it in two minutes.

Your warranty

✓ 2-year warranty, honored by us

Every Twitter bike sold by Twitter Bikes USA is covered for 2 years against manufacturing defects, with our make-it-right guarantee: if something arrives wrong, we fix it or replace it.

  • Covers frame, fork and components under normal use.
  • Doesn't cover crash damage, improper assembly or altered serial numbers.
  • Spare parts supplied direct — hangers, pads, wheels, seatposts — for years after the warranty.
Full warranty terms → Activate my warranty

📋 My bike record — keep this

Model_______________________
Frame size / color_______________________
Order number#TB-__________
Frame number_______________________
Purchase date_______________________

The frame number is engraved under the bottom bracket. It identifies your bike for warranty and spare-part matching.

Stuck on a step?

A real person from our support team answers — usually within minutes.

or email info@twitterbikeusa.com · twitterbikeusa.com

© 2026 Twitter Bikes USA · Installation & Use Guide · Photos: official 2026 factory documentation